Page 133 of Ride the Wave

You can see it in their movement, in their expressions, even in the way they paddle back to position after a wave: Ethan wants to win Bells, Leo’s just happy to surf it.

There’s not much time left and Ethan makes a decision to take a wave that Leo either hasn’t noticed or isn’t interested in, because he doesn’t even attempt to move with it. He turns his head in surprise when he sees Ethan go for it. It’s a mistake on Ethan’s part: he’s trying too hard, forcing turns, he tries to add in a rotation, but his foot slips and his board leaps out of his control, jutting upwards into the air. The crowd groans as Ethan is forced to dive into the wave, resurfacing and wiping the water off his face, crestfallen.

It won’t affect his points – he has two much better scores up there – but time is running out and Leo is now in a brilliant position, while Ethan has to paddle his arse off to get back in time for a chance at another go.

‘Leo’s going to win,’ I whisper, my breath shaky. ‘Oh my God. He’s going to do it.’

He floats out there in the water, waiting for his chance. Serene and hopeful.

When I accepted this commission, I never thought I’d end up here. There are so many things that have led to this moment that I never could have envisioned.

I never thought that I’d find myself right at home in a small former fishing village on the Algarve coast. I had no idea that I would find the courage to face my fears and swim in the ocean once more, that I would stand up on a surfboard and glide in, however bumpily, with a wave. I didn’t consider I might return to London and feel like I was in the wrong place, that I might belong somewhere else.

I didn’t predict that the retired athlete I was interviewing would be just as good as any current ranked surfers, that he would still be the best here at Bells Beach and prove as much. I never could have foreseen that I would stand up to Michelle Martin and risk future work to fight someone else’s corner. I would have laughed if you’d said that I would end up making my way to Australia and not on my own, but with my mum, who had finally taken the jump and was travelling. Just when she thought things were over for her, it turns out they were only just beginning.

And I would never have believed you if you’d told me in Toni’s office, as I gazed at the photograph of Leo Silva on her desktop screen, that I was going to fall in love with him.

Because I am. It hits me like a fucking tonne of bricks as I gaze out at him alone in the water, on the cusp of winning Bells Beach.I love him. All of him. And I couldn’t give a shit what happens in this competition, I just want him to get his cute, absurdly firm arse back on this beach so I can tell him that. I break into a wide grin, my hands round my mouth. I can’t believe this. I really am in love with this guy. Head-over-heels, delirious-with-giddiness, too-happy-to-breathe love. Fuck me. I didn’t see that coming.

Before I flew to Burgau, Mum reminded me that people can surprise you.

I just didn’t think I could surprise myself.

‘This is going to be a good finish, I can tell,’ someone says on the blanket next to me on the beach, getting to their feet.

Everyone is standing up. I join them, my heart racing. There’s forty seconds left on the clock. Ethan is only just making it back to Leo now. His arms must be tired, his chest must be aching, his legs must be burning. But the swell is the best it’s been, and he’s doing everything he can to get there.

‘Fuck, that’s going to be a good wave,’ another person says.

‘Watch Leo Silva show them how it’s done,’ their companion replies.

Standing on my tiptoes, I can see Leo is shouting something at Ethan. He’s… he’s waving frantically for Ethan to move with him. My smile falters as I peer into the distance trying to work out what’s going on. Everyone else seems to be doing the same, a ripple of confusion washing over the crowd. Somehow finding the energy, Ethan is doing everything he can to paddle up next to Leo, who is nearest to the peak of the breaking wave.

‘What’s Silva doing?’ someone cries, as Leo looks back to check Ethan is there. ‘He has priority!’

But Leo doesn’t take it. He’s still yelling something at Ethan as he hangs back and Ethan flies forward, moving to pop up. It’s the best wave so far, no doubt about it. It’s a huge face to play on and Ethan makes the most of it. He glides and carves, cutting through the water and putting in turns with such drama and power, it draws a chorus of awestruck gasps from all of us lucky enough to see it playing out live in front of us. The wave seems to go on forever, giving him time and room to dance across it, and when it finally comes to a close, he throws in a rotation with such flair that the roar of noise from the spectators almost bursts my eardrums. It’s going to be a big score. Big enough to put him in the lead.

The buzzer sounds. The Final is finished.

Ethan Anderson has won Bells Beach.

I look to Leo, still far out in the water. He must have heard the siren, but he looks unfazed, paddling calmly with the water and surfing in on a small wave.

‘Silva madesucha big mistake,’ a man sighs to his friend next to me, before joining the crowd surging towards the water to greet the surfers when they come out.

Ethan waits for Leo, the two of them sharing a hug, before Ethan is engulfed by his coach and the rest of his team. The water swirling at his knees, Leo claps for his former rival and friend, while Ethan is lifted onto someone’s shoulders and carried all the way to the podium, as is Bells Beach tradition.

I smile to myself. Leo didn’t make a mistake. He made a choice.

As the mass of fans cheering Ethan’s win drift across the beach to the podium, I stroll in the opposite direction to everyone else, making my way to Leo, who remains in the water, being hugged by his father. Neither of them look disappointed. I wait on the sand until Leo spots me over his dad’s shoulder and his face lights up. Adriano glances back at me and grins, wading with Leo out of the water.

‘Bet he’s made you proud,’ I say to Adriano as they approach.

‘He always does,’ he replies with a chuckle. ‘I’ll see you both over at the podium for the trophy presentation.’

Patting Leo on the cheek, he leaves us to join the back of the crowd.

Leo sighs, placing his board down on the sand before straightening.

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