Page 55 of Ride the Wave

‘I think… I think I could go for a paddle,’ I say breathlessly.

‘Yeah,’ he grins, his hand still holding mine as though he’s forgotten to let go. ‘Me too.’

15

It’s difficult to put into words how much today meant to me. It’s not like my fear has been magically cured – I know that it doesn’t work like that – but I never thought I’d be able to enjoy a beach ever again. And I certainly never imagined I’d swim in the ocean again. I think today I found a resilience I didn’t know I had; I’ve learnt that the fear doesn’t have complete control over me. And that means a lot.

I evenenjoyedpaddling out on the surfboard. I didn’t attempt to pop up, despite how much practice I’d put into it on dry land, but that’s okay. I was amazed to even be in the water, and when, thanks to Leo’s guidance, I managed to get past the waves lying flat on the board – which takes a lot more strength and effort than I realised – I turned round and paddled with all my might to keep up with the lift and swell of the water before I let the wave carry me towards the shore. That was when I experienced a smidgen of the feeling Leo has attempted to describe: the thrill of travelling with the water.

The way Leo cheered, anyone would have thought I’d stood up on the board for the first time. But he seemed to understand how big a deal it was to me.

It was exhausting and any time the board wobbled or the salty water splashed in my face, I felt a rush of panic, but the adrenaline pumping through my veins from drifting in safely towards the sand triumphed over it.

I did it.I did it.

And I had to do it again and again. I was on a total high, ignoring the ache in my muscles that was beginning to set in from the physical and mental exertion of the lesson.

By the time we drag ourselves out of the water and up the sand to Marina’s Bar, my muscles are aching so much, I can barely walk, but that in itself feels great: the rush of endorphins you get from pushing your body. My spirit feels lifted; I can do anything.

‘That was incredible,’ I gush, squeezing the water out of my hair. ‘I can’t believe I just did that!’

‘You were amazing.’ He grins, holding up his hand for me to high-five. Just lifting my arm to reach up feels like a huge effort. ‘A total natural.’

‘Hardly. But thank you for being so patient with me. I mean it, Leo. I can’t imagine I’m your ideal student, but you were… you were great.’

‘It was fun; I’m stoked for you.’

‘Iris, you had a surf lesson! How did it go?’ Marina asks, appearing on the decking as we smile up at her from the beach. She lowers two bottles of water to Leo’s outstretched hands and he passes me one.

‘I think I’m starting to see why you live here,’ I say, before taking a swig of water.

She laughs. ‘You looked great out there.’

‘You saw me?’

‘Oh, I saw everything,’ she says, her eyes drifting pointedly to Leo.

He frowns at her before turning to face the ocean, unscrewing the cap of his water bottle. I realise that for an outsider, the lesson might have looked a little… unorthodox.

‘Leo is a brilliant teacher. I hadn’t warned him about a couple of issues I have, but he made sure I felt safe and comfortable,’ I explain hurriedly.

‘You’re glowing! I can tell you loved it. A great start to your surfing career,’ she says, giving me a thumbs up.

‘Tomorrow, I hope I’ll be able to stand on the board.’

‘You will. Practice and confidence are all it takes. Keep up your lessons with Leo and in a week or so, you’ll be out surfing alongside us bigging up Leo before he heads to Australia for Bells Beach.’

I hesitate. ‘In a week or so, I’ll be back home in England.’

‘Ah.’ She nods, disappointment flooding her expression. ‘Of course. I forgot. Well, once you get the surfing bug, you don’t stop. A good excuse to come out here again to visit us.’ She glances over her shoulder as customers enter the bar. ‘I better go. See you later – seriously well done for today.’

Neither of us say anything as she leaves, Leo still looking out at the waves and sipping from his bottle of water as though deep in thought.

‘Do you want to grab a drink or something?’ I suggest hopefully, the adrenaline from the lesson knocking aside any inhibitions.

I don’t think I want to tear myself from his company quite yet.

Leo glances over at me. He frowns, his eyes falling to the sand.

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