Page 64 of Ride the Wave

‘If that’s what you need me to do,’ he says, his eyes locking with mine.

My breath hitches, flutters rippling through my chest. He’s joking. Probably. That was a joke. I should laugh. But not now, because it’s too late to laugh now and he’ll know I’m faking it.Shit. I can’t think straight.

‘You okay?’ he asks, while my cheeks burn. ‘You want to go in?’

‘I have one last question,’ I blurt out.

‘Just the one? I’m surprised. I really gave the story-telling my all.’

‘Okay, maybe a couple hundred,’ I admit.

‘That sounds more plausible.’

‘I’d have double that if you’d let me take notes.’

He chuckles. ‘Thereshe is.’

‘But one more question while we’re drifting at sea.’

‘As it’s only one…’

I take a deep breath. ‘Leo, it’s been a long time since you walked away from it all. So, why did you accept the invitation to compete at Bells Beach this year?’

Pressing his lips together, he considers the question.

Eventually, he answers. ‘Bells Beach was my home; it’s where I grew up and it’s where I gave up – if I can win there again, I can do anything. It’s the only competition I’d come back for. It’s a bit like you with the ocean. I don’t want to be afraid anymore.’ He hesitates, his eyes flashing at me. ‘And this time, I want to be worthy of the bell trophy.’

I tilt my head at him. ‘So thisisabout proving something.’

‘My love and gratitude for the surfing community, yeah. And, if I’m honest with myself, I want to remember how it feels.’

‘To take part in a surf competition?’

‘To take part,’ he repeats, before a knowing smile creeps across his lips, ‘and to win.’

17

As we wade through the water towards the beach after our chat, I feel a sharp sting in the ball of my foot as I step on something jagged, but I ignore the pain, amazed at the success of today and looking forward to getting out of this clingy, damp wetsuit.

Suddenly, Leo’s hand grasps my wrist, pulling me to a stop.

‘Iris, what’s wrong?’ he says, his expression full of concern as he stares down at the water around my ankles.

‘Hey!’ I say, looking at him strangely. ‘You called me “Iris”. I’ve been getting used to my nickname.’

‘Look,’ he insists, bringing my attention to the wisps of blood appearing in the sea.

‘Oh shit.’ I wince, taking the weight off my aching foot. ‘I thought I stepped on something.’ I gasp, gripping his forearms. ‘Do you think it was a crab? Oh my God, why is this happening to meagain? I swear, Leo, sea creatureshateme. They sense the fear.’

‘Lean on me,’ he demands, ignoring my ramblings.

Sliding an arm around my waist whilst throwing mine over his shoulders, he pulls my body against his before I can protest.

Not that I would.

‘I’m sure it’s not that bad,’ I reason as he leads me ashore, even though now that I think about it, it does actually hurt quite a lot. ‘It’s probably just a small…oh.’

We’ve reached the edge of the water, and I’ve lifted my foot up to discover the underside of it is covered in blood.

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