Page 45 of Cut up
“Um. I don’t have a board…”
“You can borrow mine. I’m going home anyways. Lucas can take it home on his Ute when you’re both done.”
“Oh… you sure?”
“I wouldn’t say it if I wasn’t.”
“Well then, guess I’m going to have a surf. Thanks Tyler.” I stand up and he passes me his board.
“It’ll be a little big for you, reckon you’ll be right?”
“Yeah, my dad taught me to surf on heaps of different sizes, so I should be fine.” I smile proudly. I can’t believe I’m going to surf today. I’m shaky with excitement.
“Cool. Enjoy Cammie. See you at home later.”
“See ya.”
He stalks off towards the carpark and I head towards the water, my feet flicking up sand as I walk.
I reach the edge, where the bubbles of water meet the wet sand. I take a deep breath, smelling the salty spray around me. I dip my toes into the cool water and walk in, feeling the goosebumps rise on my skin as my body temperature adjusts.
Once I get in deep enough, I climb on the board and start paddling out, powering through the white wash until I’m out past the break.
I swim up close to Lucas, and when he notices me, his grin spreads wide. I feel it all the way to my toes.
“Look at you,” he teases with a wink.
I look down at my thighs straggling the board.
“Don’t look too much. It’s been a while, so I might flop.” I laugh.
“Don’t worry about it. Just take it easy,” Lucas says, scanning the waves rolling in. His voice is calm and steady, like he really believes I can do this. “You should take this wave.”
“Thanks,” I say, heart thudding in my chest as I start paddling hard. The swell rises behind me, building like the pressure in my lungs. My arms start to ache, but I keep going.
The board catches. I pull myself up, shaky and uneven, my balance is wobbly, but I do it. Somehow, I’m up. I’m riding the wave.
The rush hits me all at once. Pure joy. I can’t help it, I laugh out loud, shouting into the wind as I ride it all the way to the shore. The wave crashes behind me and I hop off in the shallows, grinning like an idiot.
Lucas glides in behind me, carving smoothly through the water like he’s part of it. He jogs over, board tucked under one arm, smile wide.
“You did great! How did that feel?”
I’m breathless, but buzzing. “It feels like I wanna do it again.”
We paddle back out, side by side. My arms and abs are already feeling sore, but I can’t stop smiling. The water glistens in the afternoon sun, turning everything golden. We laugh between waves, cheering each other on, sharing small looks that make my stomach flutter. I don’t even notice the time passing.
By the time we head in, my fingers are wrinkled and my arms feel weak. I glance over at Lucas, who is still dripping.
Far out, he looks like a greek god. I’m praying I don’t look like a drowned rat next to him.
“I think I’ve turned into a raisin,” I laugh, holding up my pruney hands.
He chuckles, brushing water from his face. “Well if you’re a raisin, then raisins might be my new favourite food.” He winks at me, I swoon internally and laugh at loud. That was so cheesy, so how did that low key turn me on? “Speaking of food. There’s a fish and chips placeacross the road. You in?”
“I’m so hungry I could eat an entire Bunnings sausage sizzle stand.”
“That’s a bold choice, but I’d prefer some Red Emperor or Calamari.”
